The morning before we were due to meet, I trawled Openrice and the wider internet for tips on where to go - because we weren't gonna go all the way out there* just for a plate of noodles!
*ok, it's not that far - very convenient by MTR actually.
|My Sham Shui Po "map", if you could call it that. How about "Artist's Representation of SSP"?|
Lau Sum Kee
48 Kweilin Street
Lau Sum Kee is known as one of Hong Kong's last remaining wonton noodle shops that still kneads their dough using a huge bamboo pole.
How it works: there's a huge bamboo pole on a lever of sorts that goes above a table. Dough is put on the table, under the pole. The noodle maker rides the pole and bounces on it rhythmically to flatten out and knead the dough. (However I say it, it sounds scandalous, but trust me, it isn't. Or don't trust me and watch the Youtube video above.)
[edit: thanks to Miki in the comments below for reminding me to say that you can't actually see anyone doing this at Lau Sum Kee - well, at least we didn't when we went... Also, another place that supposedly does bamboo noodles is Wing Wah in Wanchai. The noodles there are less bouncy and more pasta-like though, and similarly, I never see no poles.]
|Wide/"thick" bamboo noodles|
If you like knuckle, you might want to try their slow-cooked pork knuckles (pork knuckles are simply called 豬手) with noodles too.
62 & 66 Fuk Wing Street, and Pei Ho Street 165-167
We were at Wai Kee for two things - pork liver vermicelli and kaya "French toast".
|Yin yeung (coffee + tea + milk)|
|Kaya French Toast|
|Pig's liver & beef rice noodles|
118 Pei Ho Street
Once you find this store, hidden behind the semi-permanent street stalls, there's no mistake that they sell all things soybean. At the front, on one side is a chaotic display of tofu in their wooden draining boards and baskets so full of beansprouts they look like they're going to topple over and spill everywhere - but amazingly don't. On the other side, a lady is squished into a corner to man (a 'lady' to 'man' something, sounds so weird) a large flat pan, where she's frying little tiles of tofu filled with fish paste, or mini tofu puffs that have been deep-fried then hollowed out and also filled with fish paste.
View e_ting in Hong Kong in a larger map