|Wagyu shortrib with green shallot kimchi, jalapeno puree, at Ho Lee Fook|
That's basically what Ho Lee Fook is about - tongue in cheek, not too serious, funky Chinese food. It's not a throwback to Chinatown Chinese (like Fu Lu Shou), but I'd say its an example of the evolution of Chinese cuisine.
I mean, look at French, or Spanish - the classics have survived, but there is a strong and well-established parallel track of Modern French and Modern Spanish. So as a fairly proud Cantonese old lady, I can say that I love the classics and yes, we must try our best to pass on those skills, techniques and philosophies, but I'm also hoping to see a stream that we can properly call "Modern Chinese". I feel like we're way behind in that regard.
The strange thing is, modern Asian cuisine seems only capable of coming to Hong Kong via other non-Asian cities. My classic examples of modern Chinese in HK at the moment would be Ho Lee Fook and Little Bao - both the chefs there are of Chinese origin, but have spent time abroad, which begs the question - must modernity come from a mix of local and foreign experiences? Remind me to bring that up in my next drunken whisk(e)y session, or don't.
These forays into what might be the birth of "Modern Chinese" in HK is pretty exciting to me, because the food is actually, for the most part, good. The good ones reference flavours and textures we know and love but present them in a new, "it works so well, why didn't I think of that?" way. Not just experimental for the sake of it, superficial with "twists" on Chinese food.
So let's get to the food. In short, it is pretty spectacular. These are some highlights from two separate nights I went, once in July and the other in October.
|Roast goose awesomeness|
|Black truffle risoni (orzo)|
|Lap cheung kimchi fried rice|
|Chicken wings with sambal|
|Pork belly with roasted almond and chilli salsa on red cabbage salad|
|Breakfast 2.0 - Horlicks ice cream!|
|Wagyu shortrib again - a must. And compare the 2 pics: Consistency WIN.|
Ho Lee Fook [map]
1 Elgin Street,
Tel +852 2810 0860